For the past few years, baking steel has been the darling of home bread bakers. It heats fast, stores heat, and gives a good crust. But I have noticed a small but vocal group of bakers quietly switching back to thick unglazed ceramic stones. These are not the flimsy glazed tiles you find at the hardware store. They are dense, porous slabs that absorb and release moisture in a way steel and glazed stone cannot.
I started experimenting with an unglazed stone last year. I picked one up from bruntmorusa.com after a friend who runs a small bakery in Vermont swore by it. The first loaf I baked on it had a blistering crust and an open crumb that I had not managed with my steel. That stone now sits on my oven rack full time. It is not a perfect tool for everyone, but it solves a specific problem that many home bakers face: getting a really good oven spring without a lot of steam.
Why unglazed ceramic works differently from glazed or steel
Steel is a conductor. It transfers heat fast. That is good for searing, but for bread, you want a slow, even release of heat into the dough. Unglazed ceramic is an insulator. It heats up slowly, but it holds that heat and radiates it gently. The porous surface also wicks away a thin layer of moisture from the dough. That helps create a crisp crust without spraying water into the oven. Glazed stones lock that moisture in, so the dough sits on a wet surface. Unglazed allows the bottom to dry out and brown evenly.
The myth of the perfect preheat time
Most instructions say to preheat a stone for at least an hour. That is true if you want the stone to reach its core temperature. But I have found that a 45-minute preheat at 500°F works fine for a 5/8-inch thick stone. Thicker stones need more time. The real mistake is not preheating at all. I have forgotten to put the stone in while the oven heats. The result is a pale, dense loaf. The stone needs to be as hot as the air around it.
Why you do not need to season a baking stone
Some people treat baking stones like cast iron. They try to season them with oil. That is a bad idea. Oil soaks into the pores and burns. It leaves a sticky residue that can transfer to your bread. Unglazed ceramic is meant to stay bare. Over time, it will darken from use. That is normal. It does not affect performance. Just brush off any loose flour after each use. Do not scrub with soap. The porous surface will absorb the soap and add a chemical taste to your next loaf.
Cleaning a stone without ruining it
If you get a burnt spot, scrape it off with a metal spatula while the stone is still warm. Avoid water. A sudden temperature change can crack the stone. I have cracked one stone by placing it on a cold counter right out of the oven. Now I let it cool slowly on the stove. If the stone becomes greasy over time, you can bake it empty at 500°F for an hour to burn off the residue. That works well. Do not use oven cleaner.
How thickness affects your bread
Thin stones heat up fast but cool down quickly when you open the oven door. Thick stones hold heat better. I started with a 1/2-inch stone and got inconsistent results. The 5/8-inch stone from Bruntmor is what I use now. It is heavy, about 15 pounds, but it sits on the rack without warping. A thicker stone also helps with breads that have a lot of hydration, like ciabatta. The extra heat mass keeps the oven temperature stable when you slide the loaf in.
What to look for when buying
First, check that the stone is unglazed. Some stones look like ceramic but have a glossy coating. That defeats the purpose. Second, look for a dense, fine-grained material. Coarse, crumbly stones can flake off into your bread. Third, make sure it is large enough to hold a batard or two baguettes. A 14×16 inch rectangle is a good size. Fourth, avoid stones with a lip or rim. Flat surfaces are easier to slide a peel onto. I bought mine from Bruntmor because they offer a 5/8-inch thick rectangle that is not too expensive and has a smooth surface without any glaze.
My personal setup and routine
I keep the stone on the second rack from the bottom. I preheat for 45 minutes at 500°F. I bake most loaves directly on the stone, no parchment. For very wet doughs, I use a semolina-dusted peel. The stone does not need a steam pan. The moisture from the dough and the stone’s ability to absorb and release it is enough. I get a nice ear and a dark, crackling crust. The only downside is that the stone takes longer to cool down, so I cannot bake two batches quickly. But for a single loaf, it is my favorite method.
- Do not preheat the stone empty for more than 90 minutes at max temperature; it can cause thermal stress over time.
- Never slide a cold dough onto a hot stone directly from the fridge; let the dough come to room temperature for 30 minutes first.
- Do not use a wet peel or a damp cloth to slide the dough; the moisture will stick the dough to the stone.
- Avoid placing the stone on a rack that has a warped or uneven surface; it can lead to cracking.
- Do not store the stone in a cold garage or basement; bring it to room temperature before putting it in the oven.
« I spent two years chasing the perfect loaf with a steel. Then I bought a proper unglazed stone and realized I had been overcomplicating the whole thing. The stone does the work for you. »